Caroline’s shaped sleeves with French seams

The fashion fabric is backed and lined. This particular fabric already had a nice design at the hem so I decided to follow that. As you can see I am using a strip of B508 to make sure my stitches are nice and flat.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Carefully cutting out the shapes. Use a REALLY SHARP knife for this to make your life easier!Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

A trick I picked up from Celtic Flame: cover the white fluff with a special t-shirt ink sharpie!
I did this after the satin stitching here, but if you want, you can first straight stitch the design, then cut out the shapes, use the sharpie on the white edge and then satinstitch around.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Removing the back part of the vilene with my blade.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I do a french seam for the sleeves. I start with stitching the fabric WRONG sides together.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Then, I turn my sleeve inside out.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Then I press the fabric (actually I didn’t do this in this picture, but you should!) and really press in the seam. You can then stitch the seam again, making sure you encase the raw edges inside the seam. Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
As you can see, this method might require a bit more seamwidth, but I think it is nicer than leaving serged edges inside and you can still keep some extra seam allowance for alterations.

The seam from the inside (very unpressed, sorry).Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Seam from the outside.Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

4 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Rebecca
    Jul 15, 2007 @ 15:37:00

    A french seam at the sleeves, now that’s a good idea. It wouldn’t take that much longer, but I am wondering if there would be a need to remove the bulk at the underarm/side bodice connection? What is your experience with it?

  2. Caroline
    Jul 15, 2007 @ 16:01:00

    Hi Rebecca,
    I had no trouble with it at all, but I have not had very thick fabrics in the sleeves lately. As long as you press well I’d say it is no problem. I press as flat as possible and turn the seam to one side and stitch it on that way. I’m sure it is not possible for *every* fabric, but I just prefer this whenever possible.

  3. Knitting Maniac
    Jul 17, 2007 @ 08:16:00

    Have I told you lately how you completely amaze me?

    Your attention to detail is beautiful, and your patience is overwhelming!

  4. Trackback: Dressmaking for Experienced FDS « Taoknitter

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