Serging pieces together

Katherine wrote: “Do you always serge your lining to the main fabric before construction? Seems much easier than making a dress inside the dress, but is this standard? I confess I’ve not looked inside many ID dresses.”

Yes, I do. When I first started dealing with ID dresses, I was helping our school at the time with alterations. Those dresses basically had bag linings that looked wonderful, but they hid mistakes, shoddy cutting, and uneven seam allowances. When I started working with Susan, she introduced me to the wonders of a serger (trumpet music, please) and I converted. I now always serge my lining fabric to the bodice pieces.

Yes, the bag linings are very pretty and professional looking…I admit it. But, since everyone wants to be able to have the ability to alter their new dresses in the future, it is more cost effective to have the seams easily reached. I charge more to alter a bag-lined dress because I have double the seams to deal with and that takes me longer. Also, there have been times when evaluating a bag-lined dress that although I could feel a large seam allowance on a seam, when I got in there the seam allowances were not uniform or unserged edges were too frayed. Alterations were then cancelled, but the client still incurred a charge because I had pulled things open! You can see all seam allowances in my bodices so alterations decisions are easily made.

Is my way standard? I do not know.


3 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Beth G.
    Sep 11, 2007 @ 00:01:00

    It occurs to me that replacing a smelly lining would be a lot easier with a bag lining. Possibly that’s why some dressmakers do so.

  2. Caroline
    Sep 11, 2007 @ 06:49:00

    I also serge the lining like you do Ann. I agree with Beth that a smelly lining would be easier to replace, but in all the years I have worn dresses, I just made sure I kept them well and clean and dainty fresh 🙂
    I have heard of a dressmaker that has a removable lining in the inside?!? I think she used velcro in some places combined with some whip-stitching.

  3. Trackback: Dressmaking for Experienced FDS « Taoknitter

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